These are some things that might come to mind when one thinks about Colombia. Actually these are the things that the world thinks about when they hear about Colombia. Especially Cocaine, Pablo Escobar and Violence. Yes, Pablo Escobar did live in Colombia and he is the main reason cocaine has been exported around the world and it is a part of modern day culture. Violence summarized most of his reign as the "King of Cocaine" as he was somebody whose bad side you didn't want to be on, unless you didn't value your life. However, to some people he was seen in a greater light. Usually the poorer people. As he was known for buying houses for poorer people and help renovate underdeveloped areas. There are stories still floating around Medellin, where he ruled from, about him buying kids cars and bikes for almost no reason at all. However, this doesn't take away from any of the people he killed or the fear that most people lived in throughout the 80's and 90's as Colombia, the epicenter being in Medellin, became the murder capital of the world.
In 2015, twenty-two years after the head of the snake, Pablo Escobar, was announced dead Colombia still has the reputation of drugs and violence. Having most of these thoughts in my head I was a little wary to travel through Colombia. As most travelers going through South America tend to skip Colombia, making it all the more intriguing as well. I was expecting Colombia to be much more undeveloped than Peru & Argentina. Both of which I have spent significant time in and attract bundles of tourists year-round. Mainly due to the wonders of Machu Picchu and Patagonia.
Stepping out of the airport doors and into the wild mayhem of South America is usually full of many people yelling at you to get in their cabs showing you their name tags to try to inform you that they are a formal, safe taxi service. It is like throwing food into a pond full of fishes and having them all fight for a nibble. As the food, it is very overwhelming and you don't know who to trust or how much of the "gringo price" they are giving you, because they are surely raising the price. As I prepped myself to walking through the door putting on my game face, trying to pretend I was Argentinean I shocked. No one came up to me. I wasn't being surrounded. What was wrong? I smelled my air pits and they still smelled like Old Spice. Was I in the wrong place? It turns out that they are organized and friendly with other cab drivers. They have a line and the first in line takes the first driver etc. etc. They also have collectivos, which are shared taxis (The US has finally caught on with UberPool) where you pay much less and wait until the taxi is full and then off you go. On the 45 minute drive to Medellin the roads were spectacular. Some of the nicest, smoothet paved roads I had ever been on. Maybe my perception was a little skewed as I had been driving on narrow rocky informal roads for the past 4 months. Even so they were amazing. But most surprising of all the drivers actually obeyed the laws. WHERE WAS I? Because it sure wasn't like anywhere else I had ever been in South America. Red meant stop and green meant go. Cars weren't passing each other at random times with cars in the oncoming lane approaching as if you were going to have a head-on showdown. As we approached the crest of the valley of Medellin we looked down on the shining orange lights of the city nice Schwin, Trek, Specialized & Giant road bikes were going up the valley in abundance. The kind of bikes that you only see in privileged parts of the US. Now I was really curious where I was because this wasn't the Colombia, especially not the Medellin that I've heard about on the news or by the preceding reputation of Colombia.
Los Paisas, the people from Medellin, are extremely proud to be from Medellin (pronounced Medejin). The are very regionalistic and believe that they are the most developed, the best looking and the most successful and from the most beautiful part of Colombia. They love their city. Let me tell you something else that Colombia is famous for that you might not have known. They're famous for having the second happiest people in the world (behind Brazil). Not only are they happy but they're so friendly you feel like they have some kind of angle or are going to ask you for money for the help. City people around the world have reputations for being more in a rush and non-personable. Medellin doesn't fit that stereotype either as they are the second biggest city in Colombia with 2 million people but they go out of there way to talk to you and ask you where you're from and if you're enjoying yourself in Colombia. On multiple occasions I was lost and looking for something and not only did people give me directions they walked me to where I was going to ensure my safety and to get to know me.
Like I said earlier, Medellin used to live up to its reputation as the capital of cocaine and violence. People were scared in their own city that they love so much because of Escobar's operations. Not only were Escobar and other cartels making them live in fear, but fighting Marxist rebel groups would have acts of violence such as various bombings and shooting that occurred in Medellin and around the country. Los Paisas were desperate for change. A strong symbol of this group mentality for change was a metro train that one mayor ordered to be built. As the city was growing at a rapid rate due to immigration from the Colombia countryside the city was disconnected and violence ensued from lack of/access to formal jobs. Thus, they got caught up in gangs and drug life. The mayor called for the construction of a Metro during these rough times in Medellin and boy was it a great idea! The train has been running in 1995 and is incredibly well-respected by the locals. It is spotless. I would much rather lick the floors of that metro than I would the floors of most houses. It connects the entire city north south and east and west. Ending long commutes for workers, making the city more accessible to everybody rich and poor. While at the same time allowing for tourist infrastructure. It is nicer and cheaper than any train I have ever been on in my life. Latin America is notorious for traffic and being disorganized but this city goes against yet another reputation.
Medellin, like most Latin cities has informal shanty town called 'invasiones' on the hills. These areas are flooded with violence and poverty. As they have no economy and live to far away to reach the city. Even with the creation of the metro they live in the hills where the metro does not reach. With the great success of the Metro and the reform of Medellin they decided to build cable cars that start at a metro stop and go all the way up into the hills. This could have either been a great idea, as it gave these people access to the city and opportunity. Or it could have been a horrible idea as they were giving gangsters access to the city. Los paisas were so ready for a change that this has been amazing for the city and they have now built two cable cars and are planning on building more. They have also built a moving escalator, like in airports, however this one is outside and goes from the bottom of the valley to the top. It is one of a kind. They are an example for the rest of South America and they have been recognized. Other countries such as Brazil and Peru are looking to build cable cars and are hoping it is as successful as it has been in Medellin.
They have also built world-class libraries in these shanty towns and state of the art sports fields. It is an amazing contrast that could not have worked had the people not wanted change. Everybody was so sick and tired of living in fear that they have made it work. Because it is up to the citizens to make the change. The infrastructure was built for them and they chose to use it for good rather than for evil.
Yes, there is still Cocaine in Medellin. Supply wouldn't exist without demand. The demand mostly sits in the USA and Europe and that is apparent when you are in Colombia. The tourists are the ones running around coked out of their heads, not the locals.
Picture from the top of one of the cable cars.
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